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 1953 Hudson Hornet

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Shelby
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 15 Jul 2013, 6:15 pm

The body took a bath and is now stripped.  I had not decided where I was going with the build as far as detailing and because I know the next one I'm doing will be pretty detailed I decided to stick to OOB with this one.  

I was going to do a headliner for this and cover up the 9 injection marks on the inside of the roof but now that I'm going OOB I had to fill the out with Bob's brew.



Sanded but not too smooth and hoped for a bit of textured.  


Painted Tamiya Hull Red.  It's not as clean as I would like but it looks the part in its proper position.


Painted the underneath flat black and then the gas tank and spare tire compartment.


I need to clean up all that fairie dust and what not but you get the idea.


Worked on the the interior a little.  I changed my mind and went with the lighter Flat Earth instead of the Red Brown for the door panels and seats and masked them for the next step.


Painted it all Flat Brown and carefully pulled the tape off.  I really liked what I saw.


Today is raining so I won't be working on the body but hopefully sometime this week, in the meantime I will work on other parts of the build.  Thanks for checking it out!
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 15 Jul 2013, 9:57 pm

Interior looks good.

Bobs brew?
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 15 Jul 2013, 10:24 pm

It's looking great Denis. Nice job on the roof interior and the masking.

Steve..... Bob's Brew is named after Bob Paeth. A great modeller and a nice guy to boot. RIP.

2/3rds fill a small jar, such as an empty and cleaned Tamiya paint jar, with MEK. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) then cut up some old sprue into small pieces and place in the jar. The MEK will melt the styrene and give you a styrene filler. Some experimentation will be needed to get the consistency you like best BUT remember, it's easier to add more styrene than it is to add more MEK, so err on the light side with the sprue at first.

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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 16 Jul 2013, 11:22 am

Interior colors look great !
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 16 Jul 2013, 4:36 pm

Do you still plan on the Root Beer color? Nice interior work. it will look good with a Brown car.
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Shelby
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 16 Jul 2013, 7:42 pm

Thanks guys!

Zbuckster wrote:
Do you still plan on the Root Beer color? Nice interior work. it will look good with a Brown car.

I still have lots of root beer paint left Buck. I might go a bit lighter this time around.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Wed 17 Jul 2013, 5:25 pm

Got some work done trying to catch up from sending the body to CSC lake.

Body back in primer.


Inca Gold base coat back on too.




I did the floor using embossing powder for the first time and I have mixed thoughts about the results.  Let me know what you guys think.




I gave all the seats and door panels a clear semi gloss coat.  Next will be detailing, decaling and doing the foil for the interior.


Thanks for looking in!
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Thu 18 Jul 2013, 12:30 am

I like the int. color and use embossing podwer all the time, looks more like carpet than any thing else I've tried 001  Going to be sweeettt when all done
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Fri 19 Jul 2013, 8:56 am

Nice work on the seats and door cards Denis.

Unlike John, I don't think embossing powder looks right to me. It looks to 'hard'. A bit like sand blasted concrete. I like 'flocking powder' applied sparingly best.

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Shelby
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Fri 19 Jul 2013, 6:23 pm

Thanks John!

Skid wrote:
Nice work on the seats and door cards Denis.

Unlike John, I don't think embossing powder looks right to me. It looks to 'hard'. A bit like sand blasted concrete. I like 'flocking powder' applied sparingly best.

I agree on the carpet to me it looks like the fake carpet the kit makers mold on the floor.  It does need jst a tad life but as John mentioned not so much that it looks like shag carpet.

My airbrush and I are not getting along. This time it jammed for the second time after I fixed it a few days ago. So I put the dang thing on time out until I have the time inclination to deal with it.

I picked up whatever was left of the $8.99 spray can and shot the body for the second time. Sorry the pics are a bit dark. I'll get better ones after the clear is on.





Thanks for checking it out!
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Fri 19 Jul 2013, 6:43 pm

Quote :
not so much that it looks like shag carpet.

1970's shag pile carpet!!! Go on.... you know you want too!!!!   

Sorry to hear about your AB problems Denis but the can has done a nice job.

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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Fri 19 Jul 2013, 9:01 pm

001 
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Shelby
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 4:14 am

Thanks guys!

Skid wrote:
Quote :
not so much that it looks like shag carpet.

1970's shag pile carpet!!! Go on.... you know you want too!!!!    

Sorry to hear about your AB problems Denis but the can has done a nice job.

I don't think so Al...I'm keeping this Hornet classy.

I changed the fluid brake in my container hoping it would resolve my issues with the chrome parts I painted with a bad can of Dupli-Color but to no avail. So I'm left with a few options...

1) Buy a new kit to use the chrome and I'm still at the same stage later on and I don't build beaters.
2) Order the chrome tree from Moebeus and put the build on hold until I get the parts. Has anyone ordered parts from them? Any insight on lead times and other details would be greatly appreciated.
3) Sand everything smooth but I doubt I could get in all the nooks and crannies that would lead to clean parts. Let's face it, if the chrome job is short of good and clean it will really diminish the rest of the build. Let me know what you guys. Thanks boys!

Maybe cover this mess with a shag carpet...




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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 4:48 am

To dechrome parts I use either Simple Green or Purple Power cleaner and they come out smooth, might take a little longer to dechrome but it's nice when done.

Might want to check if they sell the chrome seperate cause they might not. I would try to primer and sand smooth first before anything which is not easy but it can be done  
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 6:48 am

Never tried to buy parts from them, but I would like to know what they say if you ask.Just for future reference.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 8:43 am

I haven't ordered parts from them Denis but in common with lots of others, they did send me two new decal sheets to cover the translucent air cleaner problems of the originals. Didn't take long either IIRC.

I think I would carefully scrape your parts with a No11 Exacto blade, then sand. Follow this with a couple of coats of primer followed by a couple of thick coats of Humbrol Gloss Black. This should sort out any tiny marks. Then finish with Alclad Chrome or even better IMO, Alclad Airframe Aluminium. (I think it looks more like chrome than their chrome )

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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 12:05 pm

Shelby, I keep a container of water/solvent (depending on type of paint) handy while I'm spraying, along with an old tooth brush. Acrylics will dry fast on the tip, and others will accumulate some build up. I brush the tip fairly often during a session.
If your brush shows some paint coming out, in the first (air)  stage, before you fully pull the trigger, that is an indication that  there is some debris, however miniscule, in the cone not letting the needle fully seat completely while not blowing paint.
Can get frustrating at times, but that is the nature of the beast.

Those interior colors rock !
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 7:27 pm

Thanks for your input everyone! Much appreciated!
I sent an email to Mobeus and asked about the process of parts ordering as I did not see anything on their website. I am waiting for a reply and will share my findings with you guys. 001 

john2308 wrote:
To dechrome parts I use either Simple Green or Purple Power cleaner and they come out smooth, might take a little longer to dechrome but it's nice when done.  

Might want to check if they sell the chrome seperate cause they might not.  I would try to primer and sand smooth first before anything which is not easy but it can be done   

John the dechroming was not the issue. It's the base coat I used to prep for the Alclad that messed everything up. I used that paint before and had no issues but I guess I hit a bad batch.

Zbuckster wrote:
Never tried to buy parts from them, but I would like to know what they say if you ask.Just for future reference.

I'll keep you posted in this thread Buck

Skid wrote:
I haven't ordered parts from them Denis but in common with lots of others, they did send me two new decal sheets to cover the translucent air cleaner problems of the originals. Didn't take long either IIRC.

I think I would carefully scrape your parts with a No11 Exacto blade, then sand. Follow this with a couple of coats of primer followed by a couple of thick coats of Humbrol Gloss Black. This should sort out any tiny marks. Then finish with Alclad Chrome or even better IMO, Alclad Airframe Aluminium. (I think it looks more like chrome than their chrome )

I looked over the parts again, the wheels came out pretty decent and after they were painted they looked the best as well. The grille and bumpers really are a mess and the plastic is soft in some areas so I'm guessing the paint seperated somehow or the wrong ratios were processed.

Geezerman wrote:
Shelby, I keep a container of water/solvent (depending on type of paint) handy while I'm spraying, along with an old tooth brush. Acrylics will dry fast on the tip, and others will accumulate some build up. I brush the tip fairly often during a session.
If your brush shows some paint coming out, in the first (air)  stage, before you fully pull the trigger, that is an indication that  there is some debris, however miniscule, in the cone not letting the needle fully seat completely while not blowing paint.
Can get frustrating at times, but that is the nature of the beast.

Those interior colors rock !

The nozzle and cone are squeaky clean and needle too. I lubed the needle but it seems to jam just past the trigger. I can push it all the way but it sticks when pulling the trigger so I'm not sure how to fix the problem and haven't found a video on youtube specefic to that model. I put it an email to the rep and waiting for a reply on this.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 10:33 pm

Shelby,

If you're cleaning with lacquer thinner, too much on the rubber gasket can cause it to swell, making it tight for the needle to get thru when re-inserting. Good news is that it will go back to normal as it dries. Being a different model than mine, that's just a thought, if that's what's causing the needle to hang up just forward of the trigger.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Mon 22 Jul 2013, 11:59 pm

Geezerman wrote:
Shelby,

If you're cleaning  with lacquer thinner,  too much on the rubber gasket can cause it to swell, making  it tight for the needle to get thru when re-inserting. Good news is that  it will go back to normal as it dries. Being a different model than mine, that's just a thought, if that's what's causing the needle to hang up just forward of the trigger.

I had never thought of that Clay. What do you use to clean yours then?
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 23 Jul 2013, 1:57 am

Shelby wrote:
Geezerman wrote:
Shelby,

If you're cleaning  with lacquer thinner,  too much on the rubber gasket can cause it to swell, making  it tight for the needle to get thru when re-inserting. Good news is that  it will go back to normal as it dries. Being a different model than mine, that's just a thought, if that's what's causing the needle to hang up just forward of the trigger.

I had never thought of that Clay.  What do you use to clean yours then?


I try not to get any into the body for any kind of prolonged time. Like soaking will really swell it up. But I do use lac thinner or reducer if that's the medium I'm using.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 23 Jul 2013, 3:32 pm

Sorry for your chrome issue. The body paint looks great!
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Tue 23 Jul 2013, 7:30 pm

Paintwork is looking great! I feel your pain with the chromework, sometimes building models can really suck... Sure you will sort it out ok though.
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Wed 24 Jul 2013, 4:19 am

Geezerman wrote:
Shelby wrote:
Geezerman wrote:
Shelby,

If you're cleaning  with lacquer thinner,  too much on the rubber gasket can cause it to swell, making  it tight for the needle to get thru when re-inserting. Good news is that  it will go back to normal as it dries. Being a different model than mine, that's just a thought, if that's what's causing the needle to hang up just forward of the trigger.

I had never thought of that Clay.  What do you use to clean yours then?


I  try not to get any into the body for any kind of prolonged time. Like soaking  will really swell it up. But I do use lac thinner or reducer if that's the medium I'm using.

I will try to see how I can minimize the the lacquer thinner when cleaning it up, maybe I'm overdoing it. Thanks for the help Clay!  

Well guys I have a couple of of updates...

Mobeus got back to me today so about a 24 hour respose time which is very adequate. I can purchase the chrome tree from them and including shipping to Alberta, Canada it will be $15.00 CDN. This is less than half the cost of the kit I'm quite satisfied with that. The only thing is they want me to pay via Paypal which is cool. The only thing is they gave me the customer service email address to pay??? Anyone paid with Paypal like this? I'm really not familiar with this.

The other update is I have some clearcoat on the body. Progress is progress.




Thanks for the support guys!
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PostSubject: Re: 1953 Hudson Hornet    Wed 24 Jul 2013, 7:54 am

Good job on the clear coat 001 

Customer service I think will give you an invoice to pay with pay pal but I have never done it that way
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