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 Mercedes 300 SLR

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Zbuckster
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PostSubject: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 2:48 am

Time to start another race car. Really there is quite a story that goes along with this kit. Al "Skid Solo" sent me this kit in 2004. I am sorry to say that it has taken me this long to get around to it. My apologies Al.

There used to be a show on Speed called "Behind The Headlights" I use to watch it because it was quite informative. One hour show that would feature one car and tell it's story. They did a show about this car. The 300SLR 722. Until then I had never heard of the car. After talking with Al about the car and the show this kit showed up.



It is made by Revell of Germany. The first kit of theirs I have done. The kit is really nice. It comes with Revell paint, Revell glue and a Revell paint brush. The kits are 1/25Th scale but the box is huge. Here it is compared to a regular kit.



The top flap opens up to give you a detailed history on both kits inside.



When you open the box this is what you find.



Here is the Revell paint that came with it. I don't think I have ever seen Revell paint before.



What really makes the car so famous is that in 1955 Stirling Moss and Dennis Jenkinson drove this car in the Mille Miglia and finished the 1000 mile race in 10 hours. So it was the first car to average 100 MPH for the race. The race was not run on a closed circuit but on public roads. So you had to deal with pot holes, sheep crossings, and anything else that came up. The car got it's number because that's what time it left the starting line 7:22 AM January 5Th 1955. Really I don't think Dennis Jenkinson did any driving. I think he was a navigator. Also I can't imagine Stirling Moss toss you the keys and climbing into the passengers seat. So any way the history on the car is steep. I am sure I will find out more as I good along.

The kit is copyright 1999 so it is about 11 years old. Just by looking over the parts to get familiar with it I will say that it rocks. Very little flash, the body had none. Super nice looking set of tires, molded in different color plastic.

The car appears to be silver but not metallic, so I will use Dulpi-color bright silver for the paint. The test sprays seem to look pretty close.

I do plan to keep researching the car and building it as accurate as I can. So far I haven't found much about the real car, picture wise. There seems to be a ton of diecast models of it out there.

So let's get started, enough talking about it.

I started by cleaning the body and putting it into primer.



Then for whatever reason I did the radiator. I know each journey begins with a single step.



Then I built the long block and put it in primer.



I know that the engine is an in line 8 cylinder that was made by putting two 4 cylinder engines together. When I got to this point I read the engine block is aluminum, but I don't know what the other things are let alone what color they should be. Those 2 round things. Are they the starter and generator? Is one an oil filter? Time to go do some more research.

Thanks for looking in. I am sure that Al is right. This build will broaden my horizons a little bit.

Any input or reference links would be appreciated. All comments and questions are welcome.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 2:50 am


Here is wht Wikipedia has to say about it. I am sure they will tell the story better than I do.

Despite a misleading name, the Mercedes-Benz 300SLR was based neither on the famous 1954 300SL (W198) Gullwing road car, nor the earlier 1952 (W194) race car, although it bears a strong resemblance to both (including, in the coupe version, the distinctive 'gullwing doors'). Instead, it was based on the 1954-1955 Formula 1 Mercedes-Benz W196 race car; it was Mercedes' marketing department, who found 'W196S' an uninspiring name, who ordered the name '300SLR'. It is generally accepted that this name references the car's lightweight construction as 'Sport Leicht Rennen'.[citation needed]

The car was of a front-mid-engined design (where the engine block is squarely behind the front axles), to give more neutral front/rear weight distribution. It used a spaceframe chassis and magnesium-alloy (Elektron) bodywork, which has a specific gravity of just 1.8 (for reference, the S.G. of iron is 7.8), both of which contributed to a dry weight of just 880 kg (1,940 lb). The preceding Formula 1 car's 8 cylinder in-line engine was used, increased in capacity from 2,496.87 cc (76.0 x 68.8 mm) to 2,981.70 cc (78.0 x 78.0 mm). This boosted output from 290 bhp (220 kW) at 8,500 rpm to about 310 horsepower (230 kW) at 7,400 rpm, depending on the intake manifold; maximum torque of 318 N·m (235 lb·ft) came at 5,950 rpm (193.9 psi (1,337 kPa) BMEP), providing strong pulling power. The engine was longitudinally mounted, and was canted over at a 33-degree angle above horizontal to lower its profile for aerodynamic reasons, resulting in the distinctive bonnet bulge on the passenger side of the car. The engine was also unusual in that it used desmodromic valve actuation instead of springs. Fuel injection was still a novelty then. The engine protruded some way back into cockpit, forcing drivers of the monoposto to straddle the driveshaft and clutch bellhousing with his feet to reach the pedals. To reduce crank flexing, power takeoff from the engine was at the center of the engine, via a gear, rather than at the end of the crankshaft. This was not the only oddity of the drivetrain - the car was fitted with vast inboard drum brakes which dwarfed the car's 16"-wheels; the unusual shaft-linked brakes were originally to have been part of a planned[citation needed] four-wheel-drive system which never came to fruition. The rear independent suspension used a low roll centre swing axle system, where a beam attached to each hub was mounted on the opposite side of the chassis. Thus, the beams were aligned slightly differently and crossed over in the centre line. Cornering forces did not jack the car up, as occurs with short swing axles.

The car's fuel itself was also odd - a high-octane fuel mixture of 65 percent low-lead gasoline and 35 percent benzene; in some races, alcohol was also used to further increase performance. As a rule, the car left the starting line with 44 gallons of fuel and more than nine gallons of oil on board, although Moss and Jenkinson began their assault on the 1955 Mille Miglia with as much as 70 gallons of fuel in the tank [1].

At Le Mans in 1955, the 300 SLRs were also equipped with "air brakes" similar in principle to those used on aircraft - this was a large hood that hinged up behind the occupants in order to slow down the cars at the end of the fast straights. The idea for this "wind brake" came from director of motorsports Alfred Neubauer, who was looking to develop a system to reduce the wear on the huge drum brakes and tires during long-distance races such as Le Mans and Reims. Neubauer foresaw wind resistance slow the car especially at Le Mans, as the French track's layout forced drivers to use the brakes hard and often to bring the car down from its maximum speed - around 180 mph (290 km/h) - to as little as 25 mph[1]. In tests the 0.7m² (7.5 ft²) light-alloy spoiler slowed the car dramatically and improved cornering. In addition, this innovation was required as the car's traditional drum brakes were inferior to the new disc brakes of main rival Jaguar.

The SLR also had two seats, as required for sports racing cars of the day. In some racing events a co-driver, mechanic or navigator was given a ride. In the 300SLR's short career, this was only during the Mille Miglia, as the 1955 Carrera Panamericana was cancelled due to the Le Mans accident. On short circuits (this includes the Targa Florio) passengers were not helpful, thus the passenger seat was covered and the passenger windshield removed to improve aerodynamics.

Nine W196S chassis were built.

[edit] Triumph and tragedy
Stirling Moss won the 1955 Mille Miglia in a 300 SLR with an average speed of 157.65 km/h (97.96 mph) over 1,600 km (990 mi). He was assisted by his co-driver Denis Jenkinson, a British motor-racing journalist, who informed him with previously taken notes, ancestors to the pacenotes used in modern rallying.

The 300 SLRs later scored additional victories in Germany, Sweden, Ireland and at the Targa Florio in Sicily, and won the 1955 World Sportscar Championship season (constructors' ranking, as there was no driver ranking yet).

However, these impressive victories were overshadowed when the 300 SLRs, leading the 1955 24 Hours of Le Mans, were withdrawn after the horrific accident involving the car driven by Pierre Levegh. 82 spectators, and one competitor - Levegh - lost their lives in what remains the highest-fatality accident in the history of motorsport. Aspects of the accident were directly related to the SLR's unusual design - even with the innovative air-brake, the drum brakes were not effective enough to stop Levegh ploughing into the back of an Austin-Healey, causing the car to become airborne. Worse, the ultra-lightweight Elektron bodywork's high magnesium content caused it to ignite in the ensuing fuel fire, causing significant injury and loss of life amongst spectators; the magnesium fire was exacerbated by the race fire crew's unpreparedness for it, as they initially tried to extinguish it with water (which only made it burn hotter.) Following this tragedy, Mercedes withdrew from competitive motorsport until the mid-1980s.

[edit] Uhlenhaut Coupé

Uhlenhaut CoupéOf the nine W196s chassis built, one was destroyed in the Le Mans disaster. Of the eight that remained (and prior to the accident) Mercedes motorsport chief Rudolf Uhlenhaut had ordered two to be set aside for modification into a sort of hybrid between the SLR and the SL, featuring a slightly widened version of the SLR's chassis with enclosed bodywork for aerodynamic purposes. Again, the strong, high sill beams of the spaceframe required the fitment of the same famous 'gull-wing' top-hinged doors of the other two types. For testing, and in preparation for a possible Mercedes participation in the 1956 race season, two road-legal SLRs were built. Due to Mercedes' planned withdrawal from competitive motorsport at the end of 1955, the programme was abandoned, leaving Uhlenhaut to use one of the cars as a company car. This prolonged road use required the fitting of an extra suitcase-sized muffler to the near-unsilenced exhaust pipes to avoid arrest for breach of the peace.

This Uhlenhaut Coupé was regarded as the world's fastest car in the 1950s, and it is rumoured that, running late for a meeting, Uhlenhaut exploited the unlimited autobahns to make today's two-and-a-half-hour journey from Munich to Stuttgart in just over an hour [2]. The Uhlenhaut Coupe was road tested by the US magazine Motor Trend and by two English journalists from Automobile Revue at four o'clock in the morning on a closed section of motorway outside Munich. The latter wrote; "We are driving a car which barely takes a second to overtake the rest of the traffic and for which 120 mph on a quiet motorway is little more than walking pace. With its unflappable handling through corners, it treats the laws of centrifugal force with apparent disdain," after a total of more than 2,000 miles (3,200 km). His only regret was that this was a sports car "which we will never be able to buy and which the average driver would never buy anyway."

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 2:52 am

Added by Skidsolo:


Man I am so pleased to see you start this one Buck. I can't believe it's been six years since I sent it to you.

Talk about co-incidence. Ever since I bought it for you, I have rued not getting one for myself. Not bothered about the F1, just the SLR.

I've bid on several during that period but always been out bid.......

...... until to-day when I finaly got lucky. Imagine that. The day you start this thread is the day I finaly get mine!! LOL.

Stirling Moss was a great driver but Dennis Jenkinson was an equaly fascinating man.

For that particular Mille Miglia, Jenkinson used a small box with rolling notes on the course. Thus he was the inventor and father of the modern 'Pace Notes' used by to-days WRC crews.

"Jenkinson came armed with a revolutionary set of comprehensive pace notes on a long roll of paper inside an alloy and Perspex case. Given that the two men had not practised the race at maximum speed, it would be interesting to see if the hand signals by which Jenkinson communicated would be understandable. Speech was out of the question; the unsilenced car was deafening at a hundred yards, never mind actually inside the cockpit. They had already experimented with an intercom system but Stirling had been unable to hear anything that Jenkinson had said. The equipment worked perfectly and it was only years later, when discussing the matter with an academic from Cornell University, that the pair discovered that Stirling's own level of concentration blocked out the messages, rather than any technical fault. Denis Jenkinson's response, typically trenchant, was:

Well, that just goes to show, if these rally drivers were really going on ten‑tenths, they couldn't hear the pace notes, could they?"



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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 3:29 am

I agree, that 300 SLR would be an awesome build !

too many kits, too little time. lol
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 6:51 pm

Added by Skidsolo:

LOL..... now your'e going to have to scratch build one of thos to go on the passenger seat.

More photos here Buck:

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/89789,2252/1955-Mercedes-Benz-300-SLR_Photo.aspx
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 6:54 pm

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 6:55 pm

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 7:09 pm

Lot's of comments on this one. Thanks a bunch guys.

OK I have been doing research, painting parts, do research, mocking up, doing research, I am sure you see the pattern here. This is the first Revell of Germany kit I have built. I do think the detail and molding is better than a Revell of America kit. I don't know why I am sure they are both made in China. So it could be just my imagination.

Looking at these two pictures and reading I think that the two round lumps on the side on the engine are the distributor and the generator. I know these pictures are very big but they are the best I have come across yet.





So it looks like the front lump is the distributor and the back one is the generator. The engine is an in line 8 cylinder with 2 spark plugs per cylinder. In this engine mock up picture two things, one the injector pump is on upside down. Two the black harness that is in the middle of the engine is the spark plug wire harness. It kinda ends down by the front lump. That's why I am thinking it is the distributor.

Each cylinder looks like it has water being pumped around it That's what the pipe at the top is. The injectors are located by the water inlet tubes on each cylinder. I found 2 different pictures of this in one the feed tubes appear to be copper in the other they are steel. Making them out of copper on a race car makes no sense to me. It would be to soft and prone to cracking or breaking. I think I can add the feed lines and the spark plug wires. That is going to be about the limit for me on the engine. We will see about that later.

In this picture I am starting to mock up and try to figure things out. The injector pump is right in this picture.



While I was working with the engine I wanted to be able to do a good mock up for colors and contrast so decided to do the chassis or at least the bottom part of it. The instructions call for it to be Semi Gloss Black. So when I fitted it to the body I discovered that the front and rear gravel shields are molded into it.



So I went ahead and did that part of the build. I masked them off and painted them body color. Then added a couple coats of clear coat. Then masked that off and did the frame in Semi Gloss Black. When the smoke cleared this is what I had.



OK now I could figure things out a little more. I thought the instructions were wrong the way they had the headers fitting the block. They are sticking straight up in the air.



So I fitted the engine into the chassis to see what was up. Sneaky Germans, they laid the engine down on it's side. My guess is this was done so they could build a sleeker body, less frontal area.





The radiator hose hooks to the frame so they must have used it to hold coolant. A NAscar guy would have put fuel in it. ;)

So that brings us to this point. Most of the engine parts are painted. Things have been mocked up. I see where I can add a little detail. The whole of it looks like this.







Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome. Just don't ask me about the technical aspects of the car. I am kinda working it out as I go.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 7:28 pm

Well Al I will say you were right. This has broadened my horizons. Researching this car there seems to be a lot written material out there but not many pictures. Well pictures of the power train anyway. There are lot's of pictures of the car it's self. So I am using these four pictures for reference on the engine.









I can see that is may be the same engine it is not in the same car. Or something. There are a few subtle difference. In one picture the expansion tank goes to the left from the fill pipe in the other it goes right. At least it gets me into the ball park on where things go.

Using .015 copper craft wire I made the fuel lines. They are kept together with some PE Wiring Loom separators. I started by drilling the head in the place that is close to where the injection pipes terminate in the pictures.



Each pipe is 2 inches long. Then I drilled the fuel injection pump while it was off the engine. Next I started bending and fitting the lines as I installed the pump. The injector pump has the fuel lines molded into it so I used them and made the metal ones run right over the top of them. Once this was done I used the wire loom separators to keep things in place.



Well , thought I, that will cover the front lines up, but when you look down behind the pump there they are. :o



That makes me feel like that step was worth taking. Then using a .025 drill bit to bend them around I bent the injection pipes and started hooking them up.



Then the back 4 pipes .



Now all I have to do is shape them a little and try to make it look right.



Later on when the engine is in the chassis I will finish the touch up and finish this part. It's pretty close now.

The spark plug wires come out of an aluminum tube and the go between the runners on the intake runners. I measured out the valve cover and using 2 pieces of .040 styrene I made some tubes.

without tubes.



with tubes.



Then using .013 craft wire I made up the spark plug wires. Each wire is 1 inch long for now. The boots are 3/32 (.096) inch long.



So that's where we are at. Now I will drill the tubes and the head and run all 16 spark plug wires.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome. See ya in a couple days.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 7:30 pm


Look at the very first engine reference picture Al. You can see the Black "strap" in the middle. That is the spark plug harness. Running along the valve cover on each side of it is an aluminum tube. The spark plug wires come out of it and go through the intake runners. I am guessing the spark plugs are under the intake, that's why you can't see them. It will all make more sense when you see how I route them and the intake is in place.
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 7:30 pm


That's cool that you got the kit so fast.

The box on this one is Copyright 1999. On the bottom of the interior tub mine says 1992. Anyway I am enjoying the build. Only 14 more spark plug wires to hook up and I will post an update.

Al, I will be interested to see how you do yours. I know we all look at them differently. That's why each is a one of a kind piece of art..

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 7:41 pm

Thanks for looking in.

The engine is all done. At least as much as I am going to do. On an engine with carburetors the fuel system would be a simple thing. But the fuel lines from the pump and the spark plug wires are enough. I don't want to make it to busy but I do want it to have my personal touch. So anyway this enough.

Here is how I did the 16 spark plugs.

Al, I am sure this will clear things up for you. If I had it to do all over again I would drill the tubes, put the plug wires into them and then glue them to the engine. Then stick them through the intake runners, add the boots and cut to length. I did it from the other side, from plug to runner. It was a little complicated. I found out not all the holes were where they should be and had to improvise a little on some of them.



Here the intake is in place.



From the back side.



Then with all the wires hooked up.



This is how it looks in the chassis from above as though the hood were open.



So that wraps up the engine. While working on the engine I have been doing other things. You know it's glue this wait 30 minutes. glue that wait 30 minutes. So I have all this stuff ready to go on the car.



Got this much of the interior done.



Got the gas tank done. This car held 70 gallons on race gas. The steel thing on the bottom is the rear end.



Then when you mock all that stuff up you get this.



So that's it for this time. I wanted to get this update up before Thanksgiving. It's my turn to cook.

Thanks for looking in all questions and comments are welcome.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:06 pm

Thanks for the comments guys.

Thanks Bruce. First time I ever plumbed an injector pump in scale. To tell you the truth it was;t as bad as I thought it would be.

Al, this kit has a few little surprises for ya. Nothing big, all in all I think this is a good kit. It has nice detail and very little flash. It it's very well thought out. Like how the slant engine attaches to the frame. Simple and easy.

Since the last up date I put some of the sub assemblies together. here is the firewall, the forward part of the chassis, radiator expansion tank and another thing I think is the oil filter.



I was right earlier when I guess they were using the tube frame to move engine coolant.

So with that done it was time to start on the interior. There are interior pictures on line of 2 of these cars. One of them has a red interior and one is blue. I am using my best guess that the 722 was the blue one. So using these pictures I set out.







When you look at the 3rd picture it looks like the floorboards are aluminum. So I started by painting the seats and the tub Harvard Blue. That's Dulpi-color. I did the seats because i didn't know how transparent the decals would be. I figured if they were transparent this would be the best color to have underneath. Also dull coated the arm rests.



Decals for the seats.



You guys can see it coming can't ya? Well to tell the truth the decals weren't that bad. They did break into a couple pieces when I took them off the water slide sheet. But I was able to get things kinda close so it wasn't to bad.


So floorboards in aluminum and seats done. There is no dull coat on the seats yet.



I guessed the worst was behind me and did the gauge decals. These were a bear to get lined up right. Just so small. They a couple coats of clear coat.



Steering wheel, shifter and pedals and this was a done deal. It ended up looking like this.





So the engine is done, interior is done, chassis is ready to go together. So it was time for paint. Here it is right out of the booth, no clear coat.







That's it for this update. Next time will be the body trim and decals, etc. See ya then.

All comments and questions are welcome.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:08 pm

Posted by Skidsolo:


It's looking great Buck. Good call on underlaying blue to the decals.

You are indeed correct. The 722 car of Moss/Jenkinson had blue tartan seats.

Trivia:

The Le-Mans version of the car was fitted with an ingenius braking aid.
Jaguars cars had superior brakes due to the fact that they were using those damned devious disc thingies.

In order to redress the balance, Mercedes fitted the SLR with an 'air brake'


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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:10 pm

Posted by Skidsolo:

You can read more about the LM car here:

http://www.ritzsite.nl/300SL/03_300SL.htm


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ralH0J55dKA
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:17 pm

Well this one is on hold for awhile. last night I put the decals on. That went kinda good. The one on the hood broke, so I fixed it as best I could and touched it up with a Sharpie pen. Then the drivers side broke. I thought I had it straight last night but this AM I found out I was wrong. The three decals for the rear were the worst. The 7 came off the decal sheet in 3 pieces, the middle 2 in 2 pieces, the other 2 was OK. I thought I could make it work but then tonight I tried to clear over the decals and it went from bar to flat ugly.







The only good one.



I looked on line and couldn't find anyone that makes after market decals for this kit. I found one on ebay and place a bid, but the auction has 6 days to go. So until I can work through this I will put the build on hold.
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:22 pm

I had heard that Al but had my fingers crossed anyhow. ::)

This is just a quick update. The kit got here yesterday from E-Bay. It was complete as stated, but the decals had started to yellow.





I have the body and hood primered and painted. I am going to scan this decal sheet in and print a set of decals. More than one really. I have never done it but it doesn't seem that hard. I will print out 3 or 4 sets just to be sure. I have read that sometimes they are transparent and you need to double them up. I have Clear and White decal paper for the laser printer. So I will do a sheet on both nad see how it turns out.

I'll be back soon to let you know how it went. Thanks for looking in.
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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:31 pm

This post is conversation amongst members on how to remove yellowing from decal sheets:


brizio said:
For remove the yellow you can cut each number. Looks better also on the car. Or you can put them into water with winegar.

Al replied:
Or you can put them into water with winegar.
Briz..... how does that work??
Buck, I just had a thought, would you like me to scan my decals and send them to you????. Don't know why I didn't think of it before. Doh!!!
Al.

brizio said:
From the science side I don't know how it works, but some airplane guys I know, they use this method for yellowish decals.
Another thing that should remove the yellowish from the decals, is leave them under the sun for a while. But this would be difficult, at least here in the North West...
I still think the better and easy solution is cut the yellow part out.


maximus said:
Buck, when you print them, the clear decal film will be more transparent than the white. I have done several cars and have had to double up on some decals to take away most od the transparencies. It also depends alot on which brand of film you use. Testors is very transparent, while I have had better luck with Micro Marks brand.

zbuckster said:
Thanks for the tips guys. I did not know about the Sunlight trick nor the vinegar trick. I had thought of cutting the yellow away.
I don't want to wait for the sun to return. It is suppose to rain for the next 7 days. At least it's warm here. I really feel sorry for Al. I live at 46 degrees north latitude and I think Al told me he's at 44 degrees. I hope that cold snap isn't headed this way.
Al hold off on sending the decals. You will need them for your kit. It really is a nice kit with good detail. I should be horse whipped with a real horse for not building it sooner. If I can resolve the decal thing the car will be nice enough to show next year.
Thanks for all the help guys. I will keep you posted

skidsolo said:
LOL.... get those no-line glasses off. ;D What I meant was, I can scan my decals, which hopefully have NOT yellowed, and email the scan to you to print out. I suspect if you scan the ones you have, you will also scan the yellowing!!!!
It's warmed up a lot Buck. The snow is all gone and the water pipe from the well has thawed out.
BUT..... we now have two big leaks in the system. A bust outside pipe and a bust outside tap.
Guess what I will be doing tomorrow!!!!


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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 8:43 pm

Thanks for looking in everyone. Man it seems like forever since I posted an update on this build. So here is what has been going on.

All the decals on and the clear on it. Still need to cut and buff the clear cut.







What I did was buy a kit from E-Bay and then scan the decals in and print them. Then I painted the body and hood on the kit I bought. So I had to do a mock up and see how it all fit.





The air intake duct is on the hood. The kit gives you a little funky looking mesh to put in there. So I cut some fine steel wire mesh and made an intake screen.



Lastly I got the windshield, or windscreen, sanded on the bottom and fitted to the body.



So that's were we are at. Almost done. I will be back in a couple days with another update. Probably the last before the NMA.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome.


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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 9:01 pm

Thanks for looking in and for the comments. They sure make it go easier at times. I thought that I would have one more update before the New Model Announcement but it will probably be 2. There's more to do than what I thought.

The body is all clear coated and polished out. Just needs the final wax and it's done. So I thought I would finish up the chassis. Started in the front. with the Suspension, shocks, etc.

Here it is and the front wheels can still be posed.



This shot shows the same thing from the front. When I started to build this kit I looked at the brake drums and the fins don't go all the way around. I thought I would take a triangle file and put them in there, but when the kit is put together you can't see the part with no fins. :D 8-)



Then I could install the drive line and the rear brake assembly. There is no rear end, the drive shaft just glues to the frame. The rear brakes mounted up easy and this gave me the chance to put some wheels and tires on it and see how it will sit.



All was level and square., all four wheels and tires touch the ground. So it was on to the rest of the rear. Shocks, springs, and the rest of the tube chassis.





Then it was time to install the fuel tank. On the bottom there is a unit that I assume to be the trans axle. Holding the transmission and differential. There was some interference here that I corrected by shortening the part that goes under the rear brake drums.





It's a shame to put a body on it. The chassis looks really good.



Then it was time for the interior tub and the firewall. Some of the front bars are part of the firewall and some are separate.



Drivers side with all bars in place.



passenger side.



Last one.



So that's were we are at. Now it's off to finish the body. Chrome trim head lights, tail lights things like that. So one more update before the NMA.

Thanks for following along. All comments and questions are welcome.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 9:03 pm


Those are the decals I made. They are not perfect but they get the job done. Al, when you get ready to build yours. I can help you with the bad parts of the kit. I think the worst is the way you put the dash on the interior tub. If you aren't careful you will end up with a gap between the body and the dash. This is because it sits to far to the rear. You need to use a slow setting glue so you can put the dash on then mount it all in the body and then position the dash in the right place. Then let the glue set and take it back apart to finish the chassis. I didn't get mine right until the 3rd try.

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PostSubject: Re: Mercedes 300 SLR   Sat 23 Mar 2013, 9:13 pm

Thanks for the comments guys. This is the last update before the NMA.

I used a drop of Elmer's glue on the headlights to give them a more realistic look.



After I got the headlight covers into the chrome rings, I taped them down and gave the inside a good coat of Future. This gives the inside a very bright clean look.



Here is the front end all finished. Parking lights, headlights and covers.



In the rear it is license plate and taillights. The tail lights very kinda hard to do. very tiny and they are all clear. You have to paint all the detail into them.



A little chrome trim for the sides and it's a done deal.



Al when you go to build yours be on the look out here. When I put the body onto the chassis the hood would not close properly. So I doinked with it for awhile and still couldn't figure it out. Then I had a brain storm. I pushed on the hood a little harder, trying to leave a witness mark so I could see the hold up, and this fell out the bottom. Well after the snap it fell out the bottom.



It is from the front of the upper radiator hose. I think it is a thermostat housing. Then the hood close fine. So I took a small piece of silicone and made an upper radiator hose for it.



It is tucked into a place that no one will ever know.

So that's it for this one. I will write the NMA and then see everyone there. Thanks for looking in and following along. This has been a great build. I love the kit and the history of the automobile I learned building and researching it.

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