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Zbuckster
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PostSubject: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:01 pm

Well this thing has a history already and it isn't even built. It seems that I am the 4TH owner of this body. The body was given to ProModWrench by a friend of his, he gave it to HighVeloscity57, then when Bernie quit the hobby I bought all his stuff and ended up with it. So it has been from Alabama to Canada to Washington.

I got an email from Chris the other day asking me to consider building the car. I had already been thinking about it. Had it out of the box, found center on the wheel wells and figured it needed a wheelbase of 4 11/16 inches. maybe 4 9/16 if I do it different.

The problem with the car is whoever cast the resin body did it wrong. The drivers side is higher than the passenger side in the rear by the wing. The wheel wells are not sitting right to build a Pro Mod. (even though it is marked 49 Merc ProMod Body) Anyway I spent some time on it an decided it can be saved. It maybe butt ugly but it can be saved. So here we go.

I am not going to build a ProMod out of it. It would take more work than I am willing to spend (probably the reason it has never been built by anyone). I am thinking about a fast drag car. Something that could run a number of classes and then still Nostalgia Race if you wanted to. Super/Comp, Super/Gas, Super Pro and maybe Top Nostalgia (7.99 and faster).

That's the story (and I am sticking to it) and what I am going to try to do. Other than that I don't have a clue what I will do next with it.

Here are the pictures of the start and the car in primer for the first time.

I am not sure who made the body but here it is.



I used a piece of .065" styrene to fill the hole at the top of the spoiler.



Broken Cowl



I added .020 worth of styrene to the back of the hood to fill in the gap.



This is what it looks like now.







So this where we are at with it now. Some more body work to do and need to find a chassis. I think maybe one of the new Ross Gibson engines.
Color will be House of Kolor Candy Root Beer. The body trim will stay and be BMFed, same with door handles. Just a fast door car that's what we are after.

See you next update. Thanks for looking. All questions and comments are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:03 pm

Clay to the best of knowledge there is only one Merc like this running in Pro Mod. That was 4 or 5 years ago. The cars were still going 6.20's on a good pass. Now it's 5.80. Any way ESPN was interviewing the owner. He was very proud of the fact that it was the only Merc and only all steel car running in Pro Mod. I haven't been able to turn up in pictures yet. I can't remember the guys name. Maybe when Chris sees this post he will know. He crews a Pro Mod car.

My plans for the car are a set of wheelie bars and a drag chute. Maybe dual chutes have to see what looks like what. I have thought of a set of taillights but don't know yet. I am going to open an AMT kit and look at what it can kick in.

Same up front. kinda a funny opening for a grille. I had thought maybe some wire mesh of some type. Then again maybe the AMT kit can ante up a grille that will work.

Maybe license plates that say "SCREAM". Not sure about that either. I have a particle Christine kit. I looked at the wheel well centers on the two bodies and they are close. I have a donor kit but need to find it. Maybe one of the Revell Street Burner 55 or 57 Chevy kit could give up a chassis. Looking into that also. This is the fun part of the build. Looking for this and that. Trying to find the stuff that works. You are a builder, you know what I am talking about. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:09 pm

After I built a resemblance of King's Daytona Charger, I was looking around and found this.



Seems like when I learned that after the Daytona had crashed and burned, King was associated with this one.

I thought the car was named "Mohican Sun" (didn't know that was a sponsor) and that hindered me in searching out more info for a while.
I did get some more fotos they are somewhere in my PC. And l
learned it is named "Iron man", or something like that. Rocco name rings a bell, so maybe we're talking the same car.

If I ever get another Merc body, this would be a neat way to go with it.

2ยข from Geezer

OK, Looked around and found the few fotos I have. I'll throw them up here in case there's something y'all can use. It's called "Dark Horse", and yeah, has Rocca on the windows.







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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:10 pm

Thanks Clay. The back end of Rocca's car is way different. I don't know that I could replicate that or not. I would have to cut off the back half and graft on another, then build a wing. The Dark Horse car is the one I saw on ESPN2. It was the all metal car. I messed with it last night and have a chassis about half done. The back half. I am going to work on the front half today and then post a pic or two.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:16 pm

Buck: That Merc is the last car I would think of for a pro mod or a dragster. Looks like you are doing a great save on the resin body though. Looking forward to what you finally come up with.

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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:18 pm

Thanks for all the input guys. I had a Christine I got at a swap meet for 3 bucks.



Thought it might give me what I wanted but half the chassis is gone. So up into the attic I went and found this one stashed away.



And since it is a Ford product it should have a Ford engine. So Iam will try ti put this in it.



I trimmed 5/32 of an inch off the back of the floor pan and got the slick almost center into the wheel well.



Now I am going to get the front suspension mocked up so I can see where the wheel and tire hit the wheel well. Now the question is

To Scoop




Or not To Scoop



I am going to get the front end done tomorrow to see how it looks. I need to move the rear tire back about 1/8TH inch. I want to know about the front before I do. I may have to lengthen the frame rails.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:39 pm

Thanks for the input guys. Seems everyone thought to scoop was the answer and I agree. Sooooooooooooooo. Here it is.

made a template of the scoop base. Then marked the cut line.



Some sanding, CA glue and putty we have this.



Here is a look at the finished scoop in place.



I wanted to breakup the big flat back end. I found center then scratched a box and mounted twin drag chutes in it.



NHRA says that a bracket car must have at least one tail light for night drags. I will do something with a light just not sure what. 2 ideas I had were 57 Chevy with the chrome spear going up. The other was a single light ,like a center brake light on a newer car, toward the top of the wing. Just some thing to break it up a little more. Any ideas?

Since I still had two unanswered questions Will the wheel base work and will the engine fit? I decided to put the engine together. If it won't fit I will put it into something down the line. Here is the Ross Gibson kit all washed and ready for work. I wash these twice. First in warm water with a couple drops of dish washing soap, then with a Bleach mix. about 25% bleach and 75% water. It seems to clean them up enough for primer to stick.



After 2 days of sanding and filing and drilling and well you understand I have this.



The basic engine block is 5 pieces. They are far from flat or square when you start.



The best tool I have found for working with them is a mirror with a piece of 400 grit wet and dry sand paper taped to it.



This gives you a flat surface to sand the pieces on. Also a home made center punch. I use a piece of spruce, drill a .025 hole in it. Then I can cut the head off a straight pen stick it in. Also handy for applying small dabs of paint or glue.



The reason you need them is. The engine has a dry sump oil system. Ross Gibson has cast a small dimple into the parts that need to be drilled for wires and hoses but the dimples are not always in the center. This resin is very brittle and if you aren't careful you will break it. Then you got a 20 dollar engine kit to throw in the scrap yard.

Anyway the block looks like the engine will fit. Might be able to use the kit headers and might end up building them either way it's a go.

As for the wheelbase?



Yep it's a quarter inch short. Well 7/32" . So it's off to the chassis shop to stretch it out.



Thanks for following along. Any Question or comments are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:42 pm

Thanks guys. Clay you are so right. It looks to Batmobileish. That is the word I have been looking for. Maybe I will name it "Bat Mod". I am thinking about the "Scream". Nothing in stone yet just thinking. :lol!:

Ron, I know what you mean. It took me 3 months to build the full fendered Topolino with an injected Hemi under the hood. I wasn't going to go into another big project right away but Chris ask me to do this car, so here we go again. When this is done I am going to build a couple drag cars I want to replicate. Box stock except for detailing and then "The Cordette". That is not a 50's Do Wop group. 8)
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 10:56 pm

When I last posted The car was enough together to know the wheelbase is to short. It was 7/32" short which in scale is 5.6 inches. So I made everything longer and, you guessed it it was too long. So then I shorten things up and yes it was too short. More is better, so if a little bit is perfect then a little bit more will be more perfect. Right? Any way here are some pics to catch you up on all that.

So here it is too long.





Too short.



So after I hit the happy medium on all that it was time to put the engine together enough to see if it will fit. You guessed it, won't fit.



It needs to move back quite a bit to get it to fit right.



I was going to start hacking at the floor boards but decided to see how a tranny swap would work out. They are both 3 speed Lenco's, both have a scatter shield. Here is the difference.



The difference in the frame is this much.





This put the engine back to where it should be. and was a much easier way to go.



I got the roll cage all cleaned up and painted. Have the dash location figured out. Then started on the NOS bottles and batteries. Thought I could start the detail on them while the glue is setting on the frame.





So what's next? The first thing to build some engine mounts for the side of the block to rest on. Then the front bars will have to be changed to fit around the engine. I am going to try to scratch some front shocks and using real springs again. I have a few shift kit springs left. I need to finish the engine also before the bars are made. So most of the work will be on the front end.

Thanks for looking in. As always all comments and questions are welcome. See ya in a couple days.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 11:06 pm

Thanks for looking in and telling me what you think.

Man what a week. My wife is still in the hospital but coming home today. I haven't had a lot of build time in the last week but got some done.

I started out by putting as much of the motor together as I could. All that is left is the detail. This gives me an idea of how big it will be.



I went looking for headers. The headers from the Christine kit were perfect. The exhaust ports all lined up and they fit. Man that was easy.



I had to cut the center bar out of the front end. This will be replaced later when I see what kind of room I have. Then I hung the kit front struts on it. They just look hokey.



So using some aluminum tubing in different sizes, a shift kit spring, some blue anodized craft wire and some Dulpi-color red and blue anodized paint I made a set of these.



That got the front end looking like this.



I hate to say it but I may have to make another set of these. The front end may sit to low. If I do they will be just like this but the spindle will be lower.

Here is were we are at.



I was playing with the white gel pen to see what the tires would look like. Now I will go back to the rear suspension and build a set of coilover's for it. Then I will be able to set the ride height on the car. This might take a week or so. I am waiting for Sue to call me now. I will bring her home from the hospital and then I should have a little more build time. I will still be taking care of her but at least she will be home.

So until the next update thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome. See you soon.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 11:14 pm

I had some questions about the 815 inch Ford motor. Like where does the upper radiator hose go? How is the fuel system plumbed? How is the dry sump plumbed? So I Googled it. I came up with this.

The fuel diagram is from Barry Grant's site.



Also found these 2 photos of the engine.





At another site there was quite a read about the engine. The early engine had a 3 stage dry sump system. The thought was it left to much oil in the engine and caused drag, so they went to a 5 stage system. If you look at the first engine picture you will see 5 hoses on the sump pump. This is the latest system. The Ross Gibson engine has the 3 stage system. I am not going to change it just thought it was interesting. At 10,000 RPM there is less than a quart of oil in the engine. With the 3 stage system there was almost 2 quarts of oil in the engine. That blows me away. 10,000 RPM and one quart of oil.

OK I am back to work just wanted to share. Thanks for looking in.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 11:36 pm

I can't believe it's been a week already since my last update. First of all thanks for the comments guys.

Sue is right on track with her recovery. She had all her staples taken out yesterday, that seemed to help her alot. Thanks for caring.

I have got some done. Not much but some. I guess where I am at with this car is I don't have a clear picture of how it will be so I am working on this end then the other end. Then I stare at it for awhile.

I did get the back half done. Then I worked on the rear tires a little.

I cut the kit shocks off the 4 -link and drilled the 4-link mounts with a .025 drill bit. It was easy and looks a ton better.





When it was put together it looks like this.





The drive line is 3/32 aluminum tubing and the kit u-joints.



With a set of slicks on , it looks like this.





Got the Dash board done. Not finished but it is cut and fitted to the body and glued to the floor boards.



Here is the teaser to keep you coming back.



I have been thinking about the fuel system and how I will do it. I have been thinking about adding a set of NOS nozzles (like a direct injection system) and adding a set of fuel injectors to richen the engine when the spray comes on. Plus have the regulator fuel line going to the carbs. I know that is a ton of plumbing. I don't want the engine to look to busy ,but I do want it to be different. I am going to try to mock up what I am thinking about and take some pictures to post. That will keep me off the street and out of trouble.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome.

I almost forgot, wheels and tires. I will add a gold bead lock to the rears later.

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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Tue 19 Mar 2013, 11:57 pm

Thanks to everyone for the comments and input. So were we stand is "Can a competition car look to busy" OK I cave in. I decided to go for it. I still wanted the engine to be realistic in appearance and theory. I spent some time thinking about it and finally came up with a plan. The engine will have carburetor's but will also have a direct injection NOS system. When the NOS hits you have to have a way to richen the gas supply or the engine will lean out and pop thought the top. So I added a gas direct injection system to fatten things up when the spray hits. I could have used the Ross Gibson Carbs as throttle bodies and not ran fuel to them, but the busier the better, so here we go.

Here is the intake with the plumbing for the carbs.



Then using craft beads and craft wire I made up two sets on injectors. The red ones will be for gas and the blue for NOS.

I know that both sets have red anodized wire for a center but that's the only color I had in 22 guage and that's what I needed for the hole in the wire crimp. When they are installed on the intake the wire will not show anyway.



Also needed some type of fuel distribution block. This is my 4TH and final design.



Here it is added to the intake with the carbs plumbed into it. The injection lines haven't been added yet.



Then I added the throttle linkage. This should make the intake complete.



The gas injectors added.



Then NOS injectors added.



Between the heads is a Flex hose that keeps water in both sides on the engine. Like a balance tube. I made 3 of them before I settled on this one.



The upper radiator hose comes off the passenger side head and goes to the radiator. At first I didn't understand this. I thought why not hook direct to the center on the balance tube. Now I understand. There is no room to do it. Here is everything put together you will see what I mean.



The fuel rails for the gas injectors will come forward and hook into the fuel block. The NOS rails will go toward the rear on the engine. I will make a block to tie them together and then run a braided line to it from the bottles and regulator. Then hole in the middle of the fuel block will be for the fuel line that comes from the fuel pump.

I also got the spark plug wires made up. I know that nobody makes Orange plug wires but what to added contrast to the engine. So Orange wires, Red boots and Blue anodized wire looms. Here are the plug wires.



The view from the front of the engine doesn't really show how tight things are. Maybe this view from the rear will give you a better idea on how the fuel rails will go. If not stay tuned till my next update. The engine will be finished by then. I hope.



I can't believe it took me a week to get this far. I am going to wax and polish my 4 cars to enter into the Puyallup Elks Show on Sunday. I want the Realm to be well represented.

Thanks for the comments again, they are always welcome. I will be back in a week with a finished engine. I hope. LOL.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 12:16 am

I had a pretty busy week for a retired guy and then spent some of the time waiting on things to show up in the mail. I wanted to plumb the dry sump oil system but didn't have the right stuff. The Ross Gibson engine comes with some .035 braided line for the dry sump but it is way to stiff and to big to get the job done. It was so stiff it would crack the resin where you had drilled when you tried to bend it. I found some .024 braided line at Shipwreck Beads. It's about a 140 mile round trip for me to drive so decided to have it mailed to me. I ordered it Monday and it got here Thursday. So there was the week.

When I left off I had the fuel injector nozzles in place. Here is a pic of the fuel rails in place plus the intake plenum in place. The fuel lines are all plumbed to the fuel block. On the back of the engine where the NOS rails go, I have left a fitting that the braided line from the regulator will hook into.





Then I added the spark plug wires. Also scratched a small MSD Coil like they have.



Then added all the plumbing for the dry sump.





And that is it for this week. Now that that is all done I can move on to the chassis for awhile. By this time next week the engine will be all done and the body will be ready for paint I hope. I am going to use some .020 wire and run a bead inside each window. That way I can have a lip to attach the windows to. .020 in 1/25 scale is .500 so that would be like a half inch lip all the way around the windows. I want to get that done before paint so it will be body color.

So that's my plan for the next week. We will see how much gets done. Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 12:23 am

Back again. I want to start out by thanking you guys for looking in and taking the time to comment.

Max, man I am glad you finally showed up. I think I got one here might blow dust on the windshield of that Camaro of yours. Unless you tip the can on that thing I don't think you can catch me. :D 8)

When I last updated, over a week ago, my goal was to have the engine done and the body in color by today. I feel like one out of two ain't bad. I did get the engine all finished, except for the touch up at the end of it all. You guys know how that is.

Here is a picture of the engine beside the reference picture I downloaded.



I scratched a small coil and added it. Also the cover on the distributor is scratched. I tried to write MSD on them but could not get it right. Couldn't find a decal small enough so plain red it is.



After it was installed into the frame for a test fit the red flag ran up. The dry sump hoses are going to be to long. I tried to get them loose from the resin pan to shorten them but no way. I didn't want to break any of the resin and then have to do repair. I decided to use some .007 " craft wire to tie them up to the frame rail when the time comes. This will give you an idea of what I am talking about.



I will call it good on the engine now. Man that Ross Gibson engine was a kit in it's self. I should write a review. So now on to the body. I want to set the glass into the car. I want it to look like a street car. Who ever made the body left no lip to work with. What I have decided to do is use .020" craft wire to build a frame into the window openings. In scale that is .500 or half an inch all the way around. Here is where that program is at.



So until next time that's where I am at. I hope to have a bigger update by next week. We'll see how this window frame thing goes.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and question are always welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 12:44 am

Man it has been 2 weeks since my last update. Where does the time go.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Max I think it's a drivers race. Your blown Camaro is gonna make 2200 to 2400 HP. This motor makes 1600 to 1800 on gas. Add a 500 HP NOS shot and we got us a drag race. What do you think Chris?

Chris it makes sense for the upper hose to be between the heads for equal cooling. But in the picture on the real engine. "D" is termed "Upper Radiator Hose" It comes off the left head. It will have an upper hose that much is for sure. Where it will come from remains to be seen.

Since the last update I had a minor set back. I dropped the frame. It broke into 4 pieces. Breaking where I add added the extension pieces to it. I knew I should have pinned the joints. So it was into the CSC to remove the paint. Then I drilled the joints and pinned each one with .020 craft wire. So that got me back to where I was. I got all the wire bent and glued into the windows for the glass.



My idea to support the body is to have the front part on th body sit on the dashboard and the rear will rest on some pegs I glue into the rear body. Sticking straight down. That way I can set the ride height by removing material from the bottom. So I added this scratch firewall to the body.



Then when I was fitting it to the floorboard it hit me. "You can't set the body ride height until you know the chassis ride height." So I started putting the chassis together. While I was doing that I added the brake lines from the master cylinder to the calipers. The rear wheels had no calipers just rotors. I scratched up a couple and put them in. Nothing fancy you can barely see them when it is all together. Also made some fittings for the lines and flex hoses to go to. The fittings are .030" hex styrene. The brake lines are .012" craft wire. The flex hoses are .015 braided craft wire.

The fittings



Front half



back half.



scratched caliper and lines on rear end.



Back half is put on with 5 minute epoxy. The whole frame is put together with epoxy.



Added the Lenco and the drive line.



Then I added the engine.



Then the floorboards.



That brings us up to date. Now I will fit the front bars that I had to cut out. Steering, struts, etc. The I will have it at a ride height so I can get the body to fit the chassis. I thought I would have this in paint 2 weeks ago. Man was I wrong. Building these things is a lot of work. LOL.

See you in a week or so. All comments and questions are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:01 am

TaDA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's been a week and I am back again. I want to say thanks to those that looked in om this build. And thanks to those that commented. The comments really make these long builds more fun. You don't feel like you're alone in the world.

Max I know what you mean about the engine. The whole new series of Ross Gibson engines are far better than the last group. I have a couple of the "Chemi" and blown new Hemi's also. I plan on a couple Pro Mods using them. More on that latter.

Well like I said there were no set backs this week. It all went really smooth. The chassis is now a roller. I started by fitting the front done bars so that I could recheck the wheelbase and then Epoxy everything together. Also wanted to get the radiator and radiator hoses on so that I could fit the front bars. Added the bars I took out earlier also.









So now I could put the body on it and set the ride height. I cut the firewall to let the front end come down more.
This picture will show you how I plan to do it. There will be a small box build that goes back into the interior. That box will rest on the dashboard.



This picture shows how much more I need to come down. It also shows the amount of engine set back.



And last but not least with the hood on. I think I will bring the front end down about 3/32" at least a 1/16.



So there you go. That's where we are at. My goal for next week is to get the body finally fitted and the ride height set. Maybe even some color on the body. I feel like I got a lot done the last 2 weeks, the rest should be all down hill.

Thanks for looking in comments and questions are always welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:17 am

First things first. Happy Fathers day to all you Fathers out there. Thanks for the comments guys they are always welcome. I do agree the engine is this builds strong point so far. I guess that's the way it should be on a race car. At least a drag car, the more motor the better.

Last time I left off the chassis was a roller and I was looking to set the ride height on the body. I used my pieces of styrene under the body and then put 3 business cards under the front spoiler. That is were I wanted to be.



I needed to have someway to hold up the body off the chassis. Because the engine setback outs the carbs under the cowl I decided to build a box that would firewall them from the interior and serve as a rest for the body also.




Here is the finished box. It is still rough I haven't sanded the epoxy down.



This keeps the body right where I want it. Plus I can remove the body for display with no problem. Then I made paper templates of all the windows.



That was it the body was ready for paint now. I was excited. The first time I have used the HOK candy paints. So I put the Gold undercoat on the hood. What I mess!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I put this paint.



On this primer.



And got this result.



I am so glad I didn't start on the body. So now what do I do? I have used this primer with all other paints and never had a problem. I use it all the time when I can't find any Dulpi-color. I know the problem is a reaction between the paint and the primer.

So now for 2 questions.

Is there anyone that has used the HOK paint and what primer did you use?

Can I put a resin body into the CSC with out damage to the resin?

Until I can resolve this paint issue the project goes on hold.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:22 am

I want to thank you guys for your fast replies and advice. I have used 3 cans of this primer with no problem. I put Dulpi-color,Testor's and Krylon over it without a hitch. They were all poof cans.

So what I have done so far. I took the advice of a fellow modeler in Portland. I mixed a 50/50 Lacquer Thinner and Rubbing Alcohol. Then using a damp (not wet) soft cloth (old T shirt) I started rubbing. Here is what I have after 3 hours.





So I will finish stripping it then use a good primer. I will probably paint a test body first to make sure this time.

I was told that this only works on yellow resin, if you try it on white resin it will melt. I don't know about all the chemicals involved but it does work. Thanks for looking in, be back soon.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:43 am

OK I am back. I bet you guys thought I gave up on this one and moved on. Well no way.

I want to start by saying thanks to everyone that was right here with help and advice on the paint problem. I found out that the half and half (lacquer thinner and rubbing alcohol) worked but was a slow process. I had a little over 9 hours in stripping the body back down. I can say there was no bad effect from the stripper mixture. Side note again DO NOT DO THIS TO WHITE RESIN IT WILL MELT. IT ONLY WORKS ON YELLOW RESIN. At least that's what I was told. Hope I never find out. The Dulpi-color self etching primer worked awesome. So here it is in gold base coat waiting for the candy.



I let that sit overnight and then put on the Candy Root Beer Brown. I know I didn't need to wait overnight but was being very careful at this point.Here she is in Candy.There is no clear on it yet just base and candy.




That left me with 2 questions. What would it look like on the chassis with the gold bead lock rims? Second how would the Aluminum and Metalizers look with the brown? Here is the answer to both questions.
Question 1


Question 2


About 3 years ago I bought 6 model boxes full of parts for 15 bucks. When I got home I found this treasure in one of them.



In the short few years I knew Bob Paeth I bet he told me the story of this decal 10 times. He even had one of the original kits that it came in still sealed. He had this decal sheet printed and put into the kits without Revell's approval. It almost cost him his job. The names of 4 Revell employees are on the sheet. Keeler,Paeth, Jones and Winslow. I know who Keeler and Paeth are but the other 2 not sure. I know they worked with Bob and Jim in Research and Development. After finding it I knew I would use it one day. After seeing the wing on this car I knew this was the one.So I put it on.



While I was digging I found a decal sheet with a "Ted's Creamy Root Beer" graphic. I decided to put it on the root beer car.



Then I remember that all 1949 Mercs are supposed to have pin stripes of some kind. I found 2 1/2 sheets with the same decals on them.





Added the Team Revell decal and an old time NHRA decal.



The hood scoop got striped also.



Then I used BMF on the side molding and the hood emblem.



After looking at it for a couple hours I decide to call it quits. I am not going to add anymore. So now the car will be clear coated. Then while it is sitting I will go back to the chassis, interior and fuel system.

Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome. Now that I am back on track I will go back to regular updates. See ya later.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:46 am


Thanks for the input Clay. I agree with the wing being God awful. My best guess is the wing is the reason this body was passed from builder to builder and never done. The whole back half of the car is wrong. I don't know how old the body is I have had it for 4 years. Never built it because of the wing.

Ted Williams Root Beer. I never hooked that up. Baseball guy and Root Beer. Thanks for that.

The pinstripe is another issue. I wasn't thrilled with my choice but took the best one I had. I wanted to breakup the large flatness of the body panels and figured it was my best choice.

Thanks for the input both good and bad. That's what I like to hear.


Read more: http://zbuckstersmodelcars.proboards.com/thread/102/1949-resin-merc#page=2#ixzz2O2YitSTq
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 1:55 am

Time for another update on the Merc. Thanks to those that looked and those that replied. Your opinions are always welcome. I didn't get a lot done this week but what I did get done is good stuff. :D

I got the body Clear coated, sanded, polished and waxed. Here is a picture of the "reflection of a silver dollar trick".



Needless to say I was very happy with the finished paint job. Also started working on the roll cage. Because the dash was brought backward and lowered the front half of the cage will have to be modified to work. Here is where I am at with that.





Started working on a grille for this monster. I have it down to 2 choices and don't know which way I will go yet.





I am leaning toward the egg crate effect with the wire mesh. So that's where it's at. I hope to have more done next week. Only one "Honey Dew" project slated so more build time. I would like to debut the car at The Good Guys Model Contest July 24TH. We will see.

Thanks for looking in. Your comments and questions are always welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 2:14 am

Let me start by saying thank you to everyone that replied to the last update. Comments from you guys always make this more fun.

To tell the truth I got more done in the last month than I thought I did. As far as the grill goes I still haven't decided. My wife really likes the egg crate. If I follow my heart it will be egg crate. If I do it like a car guy would it will have teeth.

The body and paint being 95% done I needed to put some glass in this ride. I had tried to plan ahead and did the craft wire frame work for the windows to fit into. I thought it would get rid of the thick resin body showing. Well that didn't go so well.



Being a resin rookie and learning something new everyday on this car. I found out that the primer, undercoat, candy paint and clear coat was really thick. The paint filled in the gap under the craft wire. As you can see the glass stood out to far in the window opening. On the plus side, putting the wire frame in and then painting it had the effect of cutting the body width in half. (Hope you followed that) So now with the glass inside the body it looks normal. I was lucky this worked out it was not planned.



With that behind me I started working on the interior. I fitted the roll cage bars and mocked the whole thing up. Then I put this much of it together and using 3 minute epoxy I put it on the floor pan.



I also added the guages and pedals.



Before the rest of the cage goes on I needed to put the seat in. I decided to trim the inside of the car with red to match the high lights in the engine bay. So I used the Pro Tech 5 point racing harness. Their part number PTMC 17. I did the belts in red and the seat in flat black. Here is where Iam at on that now.



I plan on putting in some type of regulator for the NOS system. Makes it easier to run the lines. So I started with this. It looks like the regulator off a welding bottle.



I found them in "Butcher Bob's" junk yard so not sure where they came from. I went with the blue one. After some work it looks like this.



It will go in the back by the batteries and NOS tanks. Not sure where yet.

Also decided on the control boxes. They are the ones from the Christine donor kit. They were chrome so I painted them with Dulpi-color Anodized Red paint.



So that's where we are at. It is supposed to rain for the next 2 days so I will be inside working on this car. Next is to finish the inside. Mount the seat, hook up the 5 point, run the wiring for the boxes and radio. I didn't show that but it is right above the driver on the front of the roll cage. This thing is almost done. (Gray haired old guy does back flip of joy. Nails the landing) It really hasn't been that bad. I learned a ton about working with resin and have a one of a type build with mass history. I'll up date again in a couple days. Thanks for looking in.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 2:28 am

Thanks for the comments guys. Man it feels good to be back at the bench. First my computer crashes, then I get a bum computer, then I loose my vision. I am gonna tell you that vision is like air. You don't know how important it is until you do with out it.

So i got some done and wanted to update. The roll cage is finished except for the paint touch-up. Got the boxes wired and installed. The steering wheel is finished and I made a clock spring for it. So here we go.

Here is the steering wheel. I drilled out the holes and detailed it a bit.



Here is the finished 5 point with head rest installed.



Here are the boxes all wired. I used different colored 28 guage craft wire to break up the interior color. To much Dull Aluminum.



Boxes on the roll cage half ready to install.



Here it is installed into the car.



Here are a couple shots of the finished cage. I still need to make a support bar from the steering column to the cage. The one that's there doesn't quite reach. I will do that when I add the rest of the steering stuff.







To make a clock spring (that's the coiled wire from the steering wheel to the electronics in the car) I used 34 guage craft wire (.007) and wound it around a .015 drill bit. Then painted it flat black.



Now that I have it done I might make another one and paint it a anodized red. The black just gets lost in the scheme of things.

That's about it for now on this end. I will update again in a couple days. I can see a faint glow ahead. I think it's the light at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks for looking in, all comments and input are welcome.
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PostSubject: Re: 1949 Merc Pro-Mod   Wed 20 Mar 2013, 2:35 am

Thanks for all the comments and support through this 6 month long build. Now I can say "Ding,Dong the Merc is done" to paraphrase the Munchkins.

As I post this it is sitting in the photo booth waiting on the last of the glue and touch up paint to dry. I wanted to add a little here because of the detail on this build. There is no way that 6 pictures in the NMA will allow me to show it all. When I take the finished photos I will post a link to my Fotki and you can look at it there.

I wired the radio with 28 gauge black craft wire.



Next I added the fuel lines and NOS lines and regulator.



With the batteries and fuel system in place it looks like this.



Tach, clock spring and shift levers in place it looks like this.



Headers installed.



Last was the drag chutes.



That really wraps this build up. I want to thank each and everyone of you that followed along. Could I have done it faster than 6 months? Probably, but this was a learning experience for me. It was my first time for a resin body. First time with House of Kolor paint. First time with Krylon Crystal Clear clearcoat. I learned a ton and the next one will be a lot easier. I made so many mistakes that had to be corrected it wasn't funny. Even now when I look at it I see things that I should have done different. Oh well next time. See ya at the New Model Announcement.
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